Battle of the Bulge: War rears its ugly head one last time in Luxembourg
On 16 December 1944, German units attacked the American front line in the Ardennes, which covered the North of Luxembourg and the East of Belgium. It was the prelude to one of the bloodiest battles of the Second World War: the Battle of the Bulge. Thousands of American and German soldiers lost their lives in the unforgiving combats that took place in one of the harshest winters in known history. In January 1945, as the fighting stopped with the German retreat, a significant part of the Luxembourg region of Eislek was left in ruins and many of its inhabitants had died, become refugees or were shivering in the cold, clawing at the shreds of their existence.
A battle that is vividly remembered to this day
The winter of 1944-1945 is remembered by many people in Luxembourg as one of the coldest and harshest in records. The only advantage the weather conditions brought with them was a lull in combat, in early December 1944, as opposing German and US forces equally seemed to be struggling with the conditions. When German troops advanced through the valleys and over the snow-covered crests on 16 December 1944, the surprise was total. The "Battle of the Bulge" caught the US troops by surprise, throwing them back towards the West and inflicting a heavy toll.
Towns which, so far, had been spared by the war, suddenly found themselves heavily fought over. Wiltz, Clervaux, Diekirch, Ettelbruck, Beaufort and Echternach, quiet towns and villages that are today attracting tourists, became instrumental in delaying the German advance, resulting in heavy house-to-house fighting. Outlying farms and small hamlets were sometimes obliterated in the artillery barrages, where attackers tried to dislodge defenders. During the heavy fighting, many residents became refugees, while those who remained were often trapped in basements without knowing whether they would survive the night.
Towards the end of January 1945, Americans troops, led by general George S. Patton, regained control over the region. On 12 February 1945, the last Luxembourgish town, Vianden, was eventually liberated, effectively ending German rule in Luxembourg.
The battle remains an important part of Luxembourg's collective memory to this day. Many memorials and museums dot the landscape, from the National Museum of Military History in Diekirch and the Battle of the Bulge Museum in Wiltz, to local memorials to downed allied aircraft or important battles, e.g. at the National Liberation Museum at Schumanns-Eck, a strategically important crossroads, where German and US troops clashed for weeks.
Lest we forget...
Even though there are fewer and fewer witnesses from that period, the silent witnesses of the battle continue to speak to us. For example, in the Eislek region, the facades of old buildings are still peppered by shell holes and it is not uncommon to find ammunition, military equipment or mortal remains over 80 years after the famous battle. Among the most impressive locations is the American military cemetery in Hamm, where more than 5,073 American soldiers who were killed in Luxembourg are buried.
Among the fallen soldiers lies the famous US General George S. Patton. He died after a car crash in Germany and was buried on 24 December 1945 in Hamm, in accordance with his request to be laid to rest alongside his men. Other notable tombs include that of Medal of Honor recipients Sergeant Day G. Turner and Private William D. McGee, as well as five members of the famous E Company, 506th Regiment, 101st Airborne Division portrayed in the book and series Band of Brothers.
An "American Saint Nick" for the children of Wiltz
In December 1944, Richard W. Brookins was stationed in Wiltz with the 28th US Infantry Division. As St Nicholas Day approached, he and his fellow soldiers realised that Luxembourgers had little to offer their children after almost five years of war, so they decided to organise a special treat. They gathered sweets from their food supplies and the army cooks also helped out, and on 5 December, "American Saint Nick" paraded through Wiltz in a jeep, much to the delight of the local children. This gave rise to a tradition that has taken place in Wiltz ever since.
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